This is the last of seven articles on Hari Raya and Malay Culture appearing in the July/August 2014 issue of PASSAGE, the magazine of the Friends of the Museum (FOM).
Two quintessentially Malay fashions that have stood the test of time are the baju kebaya and baju kurung. With a history possibly dating back to the 8th century, their forms have remained largely unchanged, except for a few style adaptations to reflect changing tastes and fashion trends. Although both are part of the everyday wear for most Malays, the more elaborate ones and those made from special fabrics or textiles are worn on festive occasions such as Hari Raya Aidilfitri, the celebratory day after a month of fasting. On this occasion Malays visit relatives and friends in their best and most precious traditional outfits.
Regal Splendour of the Baju Kebaya
Close-up of a vintage kebaya from the 1950s held together with kerongsang
The baju kebaya is a long-sleeved blouse that has a fold-back collarless neck and front opening fastened with kerongsang. The word kebaya originates from the abaya, a long loose overcoat worn by Arabs and Persians, who were traders and missionaries plying the Malay world. With Islamisation, the abaya was adopted to cover women’s formerly bare shoulders and upper chest so as to adhere to the concepts of modesty preached by Islam. What started as an overcoat eventually became the blouse in Southeast Asia’s tropical climate.
There are two versions to choose from – the kebaya labuh – usually cotton or silk-based, loose and long, flowing to about knee-length or even longer, up to about a sejengkal (a measure between the thumb and forefinger) above the heel. In the past, this style was worn by aristocratic women and also the wives of the colonial Europeans. It is typically paired with a sarong, made of batik, limar or songket fabric to provide a contrast with the plainer blouse.
The shorter version of the kebaya, known as kebaya pendek, is worn just below the hips and is more figure-hugging. It became popular with the abolition of slavery and the opening of the Suez Canal which enabled more Dutch women to travel to the Dutch East Indies. Many adopted the short kebaya as it was no longer associated with the slaves who had worn them before. At the height of the Malay film industry, the kebaya pendek took a new twist with the addition of a cloth panel in the front attaching the lapels reminiscent of the breast cloth. Known as kebaya Kota Baru, it is thought to have originated in Bandung, Java and is paired with long, unstitched kain batik lepas wrapped around the waist and hips almost mermaid-like with the loose end crisply pleated down the centre front. This is called the wiron and is worn today by Singapore Airlines stewardesses.
Baju Kurung: Beauty and Elegance in Simplicity
Close-up of the baju kurung Telok Blangah trimmed with biji ketumbar
Although simple in form, the baju kurung can trace its roots to the royal court of 15th century Malacca and was popularised in the mid-19th century Singapore by the Temenggong household. It consists of two main parts: the top – essentially a long-sleeved tunic that ends around mid-thigh for males or at the knees for females, and the bottom – a pair of full-length trousers for males or an ankle-length sarong for females. Unlike the kebaya, the baju kurung top is tubular and is not opened down the front. Instead, it has a neckline slit down the front to just below the collar-bone. There are two main neckline styles to choose from. The first one is the baju kurung Teluk Belanga [Telok Blangah], distinguished by a round neckline meticulously hemmed with various stitching styles, namely the tulang belut (eel’s spine), biji ketumbar (coriander seeds), mata lalat (eyes of the fly) and insang pari (gills of the stingray).
The other baju kurung style is known as baju kurung cekak musang – literally meaning ‘a fox’s lease’. This round, open neckline has a stiff, standing Nehru collar with buttonholes plus a placket containing three buttonholes in front.
The long skirt or sarong worn by the women is usually tightened at the waist by pleating the sides, which are then held together with a belt. This pleating style is known as ikatan ombak mengalun (soft surfing waves pleat) because it creates a wave-like effect when walking, adding to the signature lemah lembut (graceful gait). Men wear a waistcloth around the hips called kain samping, usually of songket material, to give a formal appearance. The songkok, a black velvet cap, completes the outfit – giving the wearer that dashingly handsome look. Finally, ladies will sling a matching selendang (shawl) over the shoulder, and voilà, they are ready to dazzle in their Hari Raya best.
Julina Khusaini is the General Manager of the Malay Heritage Foundation. She worked as a broadcast journalist and documentary film-maker for both local and international TV channels for almost 20 years before turning to her other love – advocating for Malay arts and heritage.
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